"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
12/16/2015 at 13:22 • Filed to: None
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"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
12/16/2015 at 13:22 • Filed to: None | 0
| 11 |
I’ve been pondering, until I can get a good paint job on my Corvair, would giving it a layer of plastidip work to be able to keep water away from the cracks and stuff where it want to start rusting?
HammerheadFistpunch
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:28 |
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My guess is that no, it wont. I think that its not going to create an impermeably seal around the edges and if/when moisture does get it in just going to hold it there until the plastic falls off.
Smallbear wants a modern Syclone, local Maple Leafs spammer
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:28 |
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As long as it's bone-dry beforehand (and I mean PROPERLY bone-dry) I think that should work. If there's any moisture at all that stays behind, all you are doing is holding that moisture against the bodywork.
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:32 |
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A wee bit too impermeable, and meant to stick to what’s smooth. Eastwood makes a bunch of POR 15-like substances in spray cans which moisture cure like it does and resist sunlight, so if you can afford to wait for delivery and pay for a pretty expensive can, that might be a good plan.
Justin Hughes
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:38 |
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It’s also, by design, easy to crack, peel, and remove. I’d at least get a good coat of primer on everything before dipping stuff.
I Will Always Be The Honey Badger
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:41 |
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I swear by this stuff. Its clear, but it turns the rust into a black substance. Works awesome for surface rust.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> I Will Always Be The Honey Badger
12/16/2015 at 13:46 |
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The biggest problem with most rust converters is that by design (being semi-waterbase to permit the inclusion of phosphoric acid) a lot of them can permit the passage of moisture or absorb moisture again if they aren’t topcoated after a good drying period. Just hitting with the converter only works for a while. I also found out the hard way the extent to which Extend specifically can take a very long time to be truly dry, and doesn’t mix with some lacquer topcoats. At all.
Seat Safety Switch
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:46 |
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I feel like a thick layer of good wax would be more effective than Plastidip in this case.
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Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
> Seat Safety Switch
12/16/2015 at 13:51 |
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Well, the problem is that it had a crappy coat of paint over a worn layer and it’s cracking and peeling in the east coast moisture. It’s not POR15 bad, but I’d like to at least slow it down a bit until timing is better. Too far gone for wax.
Mercedes Streeter
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 13:59 |
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Plasti-dip is horrible at preventing rust. I coated my towing hitch during the summer, thinking that it would keep it from getting surface rust. Noooope. :(
What happens is that the Plasti-Dip just flakes off when the finish begins converting into rust.
Margin Of Error
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 14:20 |
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This is an excellent idea. Rust will keep forming under the coating but you won’t see it.
Chariotoflove
> Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street.
12/16/2015 at 14:29 |
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No. I don’t think so. I suspect that moisture would be pulled in under the dip layer and be held there longer before drying out, thus exacerbating the rust problem.
ETA: like what Hammerhead wrote before me.